Guatemala
We have visited and worked with our Guatemalan partners at Primavera for the past nine years, and have been stunned by the beauty of both the coffees they have been sourcing, and of this captivating country. The variance of flavour profiles is impressive, and seems to continue widening; a palette of expressions generated by the varying routines, varietal choices and processing protocols used by the many small producers here, along with varying micro-climates across Guatemala’s many landscapes.
Huehuetenango is located in the north-western highlands of Guatemala, and borders with Mexico. It is home to the highest altitudes in all of Central America, due to the presence of the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes mountain range, which peaks at 3837 masl. This creates lots of high altitude land to grow high-quality coffee, an important crop in an area where agriculture is the largest industry. These high altitudes also lead to very beautiful scenery, something the area is known for, but also to a remoteness not found elsewhere in Guatemala. 9 different ancient Mayan dialects are still spoken here, and the region is home to some of the best preserved examples of Mayan architecture.
The Fraijanes region is much further south than Huehuetenango, lying much closer to the Guatemalan capital Guatemala City. This means that Fraijanes has felt the effects of urbanisation, with higher costs of production and rising land values leading to some difficulty in maintaining a profitable coffee farm. The rapidly changing economy here has led to a population rise and a more commercial economy; some time between 2010 and 2020, agriculture was overtaken as the largest employer and main contributor to the Fraijanes economy.
Catalina Manuel
Catalina grows coffee outside the town of San Antonio Huista in Huehuetenango. Here in the Huista micro-region, the landscape is dominated by very small-scale farms and Catalina’s farm is no different, at only 1.3 hectares. Growing and selling coffee provides the main income for the family, like many others in this remote and agriculturally dependent region. Catalina is a second generation producer, having inherited this plot from her father. Catalina sought out the Primavera program in the Huista area, gaining vital knowledge in order to increase and stabilise her income from coffee. This is one of Catalina’s main aim, as this income allows her to support her husband and their two children.
The family do all of the farm work themselves, transporting baskets of cherry back to their small mill on horseback. Here, they are de-pulped directly and fermented in tanks until the mucilage is broken down. The conditions high in the tropical Guatemalan highlands, characterised by high humidity and cool temperatures, lead to a long, slow fermentation of around 40 hours.
This leads to a crisp and sweet expression, here reminiscent of ripe red berries, sweet dark chocolate and raisins.
Freddy Orantes
The Fraijanes region is much further south than Huehuetenango, where most of our Guatemalan lots come from each year. Fraijanes lies much closer to the Guatemalan capital Guatemala City, so has felt the effects of urbanization, with higher costs of production and rising land values leading to some difficulty in maintaining a profitable coffee farm.
Freddy’s farm is only around a 90 minute drive from the city, and is a great example of the work that’s possible in this region, leading a move towards higher quality in order to maintain his family business. He has worked on separation of several varietals from the farm, creating traceable micro lots that he can sell for a premium. The warm climate and strong sun in Fraijanes allows more flexibility in processing compared to northern regions like Huehuetenango, making natural and honey processes much more accessible here, allowing Freddy even more opportunity for separation and value creation.
This lot was harvested from Freddy’s stock of Pacamara in January, and processed using a rather meticulous natural process. The coffee was first floated to get rid of low density cherries and foreign material, before being transferred directly to drying tables. The drying process takes place on well-ventilated and shaded raised beds, while the cherry is turned very often; every hour during the initial 3 days, and every 3 hours thereafter. This creates a very even drying, and a consistent level of fermentation.
Freddy’s fine work on the farm translates into a clean and elegant cup, with soft and sweet notes of baked apricot, rich butterscotch and a crisp herbal finish.
Coffees from Guatemala have become a summer favorite for us here in the roastery.
Coming into season at around the same time as Kenyan and Ethiopian lots, these are the perfect penchant to the bright and bombastic flavours of Africa. Most are deeply sweet, with richer flavours of dried fruit, often lifted by complex wine-like acidity. The palette of high quality profiles we find in Guatemala is a testament to the hard work and dedication of the producers under differing circumstances across the country, and to the commitment shown to all of them by our partners at Primavera, in access to market, and in their everyday agronomic support on the ground. We hope you enjoy all of their hard work this month.