Cacao Real
The region around the towns of Chamulapita and Soconusco, in the far south of Chiapas state, is the origin of Cacao Real, the royal cacao drunk by Aztec kings. There is much documentation for the Aztecs love of cacao, preserved for thousands of years among artefacts found here in Chiapas. The Aztecs prepared their cacao as a strong and bitter drink known as ‘techocolat’, whose consumption was reserved for the highest level of Aztec society; emperor, nobles and warriors.
Cacao formed the basis for rituals dedicated to Quetzalcoat, the Aztec god of cacao, and the cocoa pod itself was even used as a currency; at some stages in history it was worth more than gold. At that time, cocoa cultivation in Mexico was spread throughout the country, in the warm temperate zones from Tabasco, to Michoacan, Colima, Chiapas and Campeche. Even at this time, the most appreciated were the Tabasco areas, in Chiapas and Soconusco, where cacao was recognised for its large seeds, flavor and fragrance.
The Soconusco Chamulapita Cooperative
Cacao grows in the region to this day. Soconusco and Chamulapita are further south in Chiapas than where we work with coffee from our partners at Caféologo, closer to the coast and at lower altitude than the coffee zones. We are still close to the border with Guatemala, but the conditions here are warmer, humid and temperate, due to the influence of the Pacific Ocean.
"This short fermentation and excellent raw material leads to a bright chocolate, with notes of fresh strawberry.."
The Soconusco-Chamulapita cooperative is made up of 138 farmers surrounding the two towns, and supports each with training, assistance with quality control, and quality bonuses for their cacao. Most of the farmers have very old native Criollo trees, but there are some areas where these have been replaced by more modern imported Trinitario stock. Each uses agroforestry systems, growing alongside native shade trees and some food crops. Each farmer brings their pulp to a central location in town for fermentation, 100 hours in square wooden boxes.
This short fermentation and excellent raw material leads to a bright chocolate, with notes of fresh strawberry and sea buckthorn atop rich and almost savoury bass notes of olive oil and balsamic.